Rum, Sodomy, and the Lash: Pick Two (aghrivaine) wrote,
Rum, Sodomy, and the Lash: Pick Two

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Boogie Boarding

I had some friends over for Labor Day yesterday, to spend some time at the beach and scratch that "haven't played a board game in a while" itch. Catwoman, Katia and nephandi all went down to the beach, and we set up pirate flag beach towels and chairs. I grabbed a boogie board, I've been trying to convince Catwoman to try it for months; and she jumped right in with me. As soon as I saw the surf though, I had second thoughts - normally the beach in front of my apartment has such flat waves that they barely suffice for even bodysurfing or doing much other than just splashing around. But yesterday they were coming in fast sets, tall and hard. As soon as we stepped in the undertow grabbed us fast and hard, as well. I found out later that my neighbor, and experienced surfer, went out to the break and got pulled by the riptide so far out past the rocks the Coast Guard had to pick him up.

I'd been out surfing the day before, and had a hard day just station-keeping somewhere in the sweet spot. The waves were tall and something of a chore to get out past, but that made it that much more rewarding to catch 'em, which I did a couple of times. Anyway, the point is, the waves and tides were very strong yesterday, which made it a bad day for a first timer. We both caught quite a bit of water right in the face trying to get past the whitewater. I'm used to it, but Catwoman wasn't, and she didn't like it one little bit. She sort of half-caught one wave and rode it in a bit, but hadn't really gotten out to where they were breaking so didn't get the full, thrilling ride. She decided she'd had enough when she got a mouthful of satlwater, and packed it in. I struggled manfully to get out past a really big set of waves, but it took a long time and I was pretty well blown by the time I got out there. I just floated on my boogie board for a while and caught my breath. Then I kicked like hell to catch a really big wave; it was either ride it or eat it. It picked me up, and lifted me what felt like two stories up in the air. Up, up - unfortunately not away, because that would be AWESOME - but no, I plunged down the face, managed to cut back and forth a bit, and rode it all the way up to the high tide mark. A long, fast, exhilirating ride. MAN I wish I had had my surfboard with me!

Unbenknownst to me, Catwoman had given it another shot. She got out right into the whitewater, got knocked off her feet, and turned end over end and bumped her head on the shore. When I found her she was pretty upset and half-drowned - it was a big, big surf day - I was really impressed with her pluck and dash - but definitely should have told her to try some other, gentler day. Looked it up today, and there were eight foot waves. That's EPIC for Venice, which is usually a three-footer on a good day. Still, it was splendid to go roll around in the surf for a while, more splendid still to barbecue afterwards, hose off, and eat. Good sea, good sun, good food - most of all, good friends. While we were just lounging on the beach, it occurred to me that we were two beautiful actresses, a lawyer, and a screen-writer hanging out together on the beach and LA; we're young and fabulous, and living the life.

Damn I'm lucky.
Tags: surfing

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